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The same four products can give soft, defined curls or a stiff, flaky mess, depending on the order they go on. The principle is simple once it is stated: lightest and most watery first, heaviest and firmest last. Water-based products need to reach the hair before anything seals it. Hold needs to sit on the outside, where it can form a shell.
The standard order
0. Start with soaking wet hair
Not a product, and the step that matters most. Every styler spreads further and sets better on dripping wet hair. If your hair has started to dry, re-wet it.
1. Leave-in conditioner
What it does: adds moisture and slip, and gives later products a smooth base.
Rake a small amount through from the ends upward. This is your last chance to detangle.
2. Curl cream
What it does: adds softness and weight, and helps curls gather into clumps.
Smooth it over sections with flat palms. This step is optional, and for fine or wavy hair it is usually better skipped.
3. Gel or mousse
What it does: holds the curl in shape while it dries and for the days after.
Glaze it over the surface of each section with flat hands, then scrunch upward. Use more than seems necessary; hold is the step most people underdo.
4. Dry
Blot with a microfiber towel, then air dry or diffuse. Do not touch your hair until it is completely dry.
5. Oil, last and least
What it does: softens the gel cast and adds shine.
Rub two or three drops between your palms and scrunch your dry hair to break the stiffness. Oil does not moisturize; it seals. Applied before your water-based products, it blocks them.
Moisture first, hold last, and oil only at the very end.
The order by hair type
| Hair | Routine |
|---|---|
| Wavy, fine | Mousse or light gel. Leave-in only if the ends feel dry. |
| Wavy, thick | Light leave-in, then gel or mousse. |
| Curly | Leave-in, then gel. Cream in between if hair is dry. |
| Coily | Leave-in, cream, then gel or butter, with oil to seal. |
The more tightly your hair curls and the thicker each strand, the more layers it can carry. The looser and finer, the fewer.
LOC and LCO
Two layering systems are widely used for coily and very dry hair.
- LOC: liquid or leave-in, then oil, then cream.
- LCO: liquid or leave-in, then cream, then oil.
The difference is whether oil goes under the cream or over it. LCO puts the sealing layer last, which is the more logical order and tends to suit low porosity hair, where oil applied early can sit on the surface. LOC is often preferred for high porosity hair that loses moisture quickly. Try both and keep the one that leaves your hair soft for longer. Background on porosity is in Hair Porosity, Explained.
Common mistakes
- Oil first. It repels the water-based products that follow.
- Gel before leave-in. The hold sets before the moisture can get in, and the leave-in then breaks the gel down.
- Too many layers. Four products on fine hair is a recipe for flat, greasy curls.
- Mixing brands that disagree. Some leave-ins and gels form white flakes together. Before using a new pair, rub a little of each together in your palm. If it stays smooth, they are compatible. If it turns into small white beads, choose a different combination.
- Applying to damp hair. Products sit in patches on half-dry hair and cause frizz.
How much to use
For shoulder-length hair of medium thickness, as a starting point:
- Leave-in: the size of a nickel.
- Cream: the size of a dime.
- Gel: the size of a quarter, twice.
- Mousse: two generous handfuls.
- Oil: two or three drops.
Halve these for fine or short hair, and double them for long, thick or coily hair. Add more only where your hair still feels rough; it is far easier to add than to take away.
