3A Hair: A Complete Guide

Type 3A is the first true curl: large, loose spirals about the width of a piece of sidewalk chalk. It is often the shiniest of the curly patterns, because a wide loop reflects more light than a tight one. It is also the least stable. A 3A curl can be brushed, slept or simply touched into a wave.

How to recognize it

• Large, open spirals that form full loops, not just S-bends.
• Curls roughly the width of chalk or a thick marker.
• Noticeable shine.
• A pattern that loosens easily, especially when long or handled.
• Moderate frizz, mostly at the surface.

If your hair forms S-shapes with only the odd ringlet, you may be 2C. Tighter, springier ringlets the width of a marker pen are 3B.

What 3A hair needs

3A hair lives between two sets of advice. It is curly enough to be dry at the ends and to need hold. It is loose enough to be flattened by the rich creams most curl routines recommend. The balance is light moisture and medium hold: more than a wave needs, less than a ringlet can take.

The routine

Cleanse

Two or three times a week, with a sulfate-free shampoo.

Condition

Use a conditioner with good slip from the ears down, detangle with your fingers, and squeeze water upward into the curls before rinsing. A deep conditioner every week or two is enough.

Style

On soaking wet hair:

1. A light leave-in, raked through the lengths.
2. Gel or mousse, glazed over each section and scrunched up toward the scalp.

Leave the curl cream out unless your hair is noticeably dry. For most 3A hair it is the product that turns spirals into waves.

Dry

Scrunch with a microfiber towel, then diffuse on low, lifting sections toward the scalp. Stop a little before fully dry and let the air finish the job. Scrunch out the cast.

A 3A curl is easy to make and easy to lose. Most of the work is in not disturbing it.

Common 3A problems

Curls that turn into waves. Weight is the usual cause: long hair, heavy products or buildup. Lighten the routine and consider layers. See Why Your Curls Fall Flat.

Definition that lasts a few hours. Not enough hold. Use more gel, on wetter hair.

Frizz on the surface. Touching the hair while it dries, or a rough towel. See Why Is My Curly Hair Frizzy?

Uneven curls. The top layer is often looser than the hair underneath. Finger-coil the straighter pieces while wet so they match.

What to avoid

• Heavy butters and thick creams.
• Brushing dry hair.
• Running your fingers through your curls during the day.
• Tight ponytails, which stretch the pattern.
• Frequent heat. 3A curls loosen permanently with less heat than tighter patterns need. See How to Repair Heat-Damaged Curls.

Shaping, if you want it

A styling brush gives 3A curls more uniform spirals. Remove every other row of pins first, so the brush makes large clumps that suit a loose curl.

Between washes

3A curls typically last two to three days. Sleep with a loose pineapple on a satin pillowcase, and in the morning mist with water and scrunch. See How to Sleep With Curly Hair.

For the wider family, see the Curly hair guide.