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Very few hair tools become known by their model number. The Denman D3 has: a slim styling brush with seven rows of nylon pins set in a red rubber pad, largely unchanged for generations. It was designed for smoothing and blow-drying. Its second life, as the brush curly-haired people use to create defined ringlets, came much later and by word of mouth.

It is inexpensive, widely praised and frequently misunderstood. This is a look at what it does, how to use it and who should leave it on the shelf.

How it is built

The design is simple. Smooth, round-ended nylon pins sit in rows on a curved, anti-static rubber pad, which slides out of the handle for cleaning. The pins are stiff and closely spaced, so the brush grips the hair firmly and pulls it taut.

That tension is the whole point. When a wet, product-coated section of curly hair is brushed through under tension and released, the strands gather into one smooth, uniform clump and spring back as a single defined curl.

How to use it on curls

The D3 is a styling tool for wet hair. It is not a detangler, and it should not be used on dry curls.

  1. Detangle first, with your fingers or a wide-tooth comb, in the shower.
  2. Apply your stylers to soaking wet hair: leave-in, then gel or cream.
  3. Work in sections about two inches wide. Smaller sections give tighter, more defined curls.
  4. Brush from root to tip, holding the section taut and slightly away from your head.
  5. Turn your wrist as you reach the ends, as though curling a ribbon with scissors. The section should spiral as it leaves the brush.
  6. Scrunch gently and move on. Then dry without touching.

What it does well

  • Definition. For type 3 curls, few tools produce such uniform ringlets.
  • Even product distribution. The pins carry gel through every strand.
  • Durability. It is a solid object that lasts for years.
  • Price. It costs less than most of the stylers you will use with it.

Where it falls short

  • It has a learning curve. The first attempt is often underwhelming. The wrist turn takes a few wash days to get right.
  • It can reduce volume. Very defined, separated ringlets take up less space than looser, fluffier curls. If you want fullness more than definition, brush styling may not be for you.
  • It is slow. Sectioning a full head of thick hair takes time.
  • It is firm. Used impatiently on tangled hair, the stiff pins will break strands.

Who should buy it

Type 3 curls benefit most. If your curls are frizzy and undefined despite good products, this is the most likely fix for the least money.

Type 4 coils can use it to define a wash-and-go, in small sections with plenty of product. The seven-row D3 is the usual choice; the larger nine-row D4 covers thick hair faster.

Type 2 waves should be cautious. The tension can pull a loose wave straight or split it into thin, stringy strands. If you want to try it, remove several rows first, or simply style with your hands.

If you need a detangler instead

The D3 is often bought as a detangling brush, and it is not a good one for curls. A brush with flexible, separated rows is far gentler.

The verdict

The Denman D3 is a specialist tool that happens to cost very little. For curly hair that wants definition, it is close to essential, provided you are willing to practice. For waves, and for anyone who prizes volume over neatness, it is optional. For where brush styling fits in the routine, see The Wash Day Routine.